Rule 1. Never Button Your Bottom Suit Button
Button up when you are standing. Jackets are designed for a slimmer silhouette when they are buttoned. Your chest and shoulders will be built up and the waistline is slimmed. Think of it in terms of a tent. The way it’s designed, a tent that has its “door” unzipped will billow from the wind, but when closed serves its purpose perfectly. It’s important that the jacket is buttoned correctly.
Always button the jacket of a one button suit
Two button suit jackets should only have the top button fastened
The middle button should be secured with three button suits. The top button is optional.
The bottom button is never buttoned. This is for functionality and comfort. You will have restricted movement near the hips and chest when all of the buttons are buttoned. The same goes for double breasted jackets. The bottom button that is closest to the edge of the opening should be left unbuttoned.
Remember that suit jackets are (often times) the highlight of the outfit. A jacket that is improperly worn can ruin the look.
2. Never Match Your Tie and Pocket Square
Inherent in this rule is to always wear a pocket square. Pocket squares polish the look off and are timeless. It breaks up the monotony on the chest of the jacket. From the shoulder to the pocket is about 6 – 8 inches of fabric that can use some adornment. Pocket square and tie combinations should complement in color scheme but not be the same pattern.
Doing this forces you to dig deep and be creative. For example, the pocket square can have a subtle color that’s in the tie. When placed in your suit pocket that infinitesimal color will be brought out when paired with the neck tie.
Pocket squares are made to be seen so choose one that will not sink and disappear into your pocket throughout the day.
If you consult a professional about how to properly sport a kerchief, you may not be sold. A tip that will help you if this is the case is donning a white – straight fold pocket square. There are others ways to fold your pocket square.
3. Spend As Much on Your Shoes As You Do Your Suit
Shoes are the focal point of a suit. They round off the look with class and elegance. When you are wearing a great pair of shoes, people are able to see the suit better.
The natural inclination when looking at someone is to start at the head. Classically stylish shoes will catch the eye and make onlookers scan you from top to bottom. This why the entire suit (and all accessories) can be seen.
More importantly, the shoes must be of stellar quality. Just as in suits, price can be an indicator of quality. It’s not a guarantee but it does usually point you in the right direction.
Shoes with a steeper price tag are generally constructed better. Ideally, you want to purchase a hand cobbled shoe. There is greater attention to detail and craftsmanship when a shoe is hand made. Some handmade shoes may not be in the budget so do your research and find a quality shoe brand that will last. Style is an investment in you and your confidence. So don’t be afraid to spend a little.
Trends may come but they will also go. As such, I am an advocate of the classic and timeless elements of menswear. By investing in these items and wearing them the classic and intended way – you can guarantee that you will be pleased with the outcome. You also will not have to worry about looking at yourself 10 years down the line when a fad has faded and wonder why the hell you wore that!